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How do you currently care for the wood surfaces in your home?
Every home has several wood surfaces, whether it is floors, banisters or molding. What wood care methods do you find most effective for maintaining these surfaces?
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about 1 year ago
Murphy’s oil
about 1 year ago
well you could use vanish the more you look after the wood the longer it will last
about 1 year ago
I use Murphy’s Oil Soap for regular cleaning. But I live in a semi-desert climate where it is very dry so I have to treat most of the wood surfaces in my home with Scott’s Liquid Gold every 6 months or so to keep it moisturized enough that it doesn’t crack or dry out.
about 1 year ago
Our cleaning lady uses PolyCare for our hardwood floors and Pledge for the end tables in our family room. In addition, she uses a wax for our bannister which cleans the railing and makes it smooth to the touch!
about 1 year ago
The primary thing is to keep wood surfaces clean by using Murphy’s Oil Soap. If the wood is protected by a layer of varnish or polyurethane, just keep it clean. You cannot feed wood that is protected or sealed. If the wood is not sealed you can use a 50 50 mixture of boiled linseed oil and turpentine once a year. After the wood absorbs the mixture, use a clean soft cloth to soak up residue and buff to a soft gloss. Be aware that linseed oil will darken the wood a little but it really brings out the beauty of the grain and natural color. If the wood is teak or Monkey Pod, it rarely requires a top finish unless you want to put food in it. Teak must be oiled once a year to keep it from drying or you can protect it with varnish.
about 1 year ago
murphy oil and my mom does it
about 1 year ago
welding torch! (jk) I use a spray on yellow liquid…
about 1 year ago
I use wood renewal spray. Keeps it looking pretty nice. And it helps keep the dust from building up.
about 1 year ago
I won’t use anything but a duster on my wood floors. I have a motto though, no product but water on any flooring surfices. I don’t care how hard. They just don’t need anything but to have the dirt removed. As someone noted, sealed floors just need to be dusted as the poly coating doesn’t accept any chemicals. All you do is destroy the poly coating.
about 1 year ago
Murphy’s oil soap for the floors,and scotts liquid gold for wood moldings and paneling.
about 1 year ago
I’m not stupid enough to have wood surfaces that need a lot of care for starters. I purposely bought a mobile home WITHOUT wood surfaces to care for. Even my furniture only requires Pledge once a week. I’ve already had my fill of caring for wood products.
Growing up, my grandmother had wood furniture that required Scott’s Liquid Gold to dust. Rub on with one rag, wipe off with another. We never saw the beauty in hardwood floors either. The house in Yuma had them & were a royal pain to maintain. I can remember going down there in the winters to help maintain those floors. One room at a time we’d dust the floor, damp mop the floor, let it air dry, then use Murphy’s Oil Soap on them. This process would take 3 days, 3 rooms to do, bedroom, dining/living room. Thank goodness the bathroom, kitchen & back porch had linoleum!
All the floorboards & wood walls in my mobile have been painted over by previous owners. I’m owner # 3. Owner # 2 saw fit to paint the built in curio & extra closet in my bedroom black. The living room wood wall is painted a flat white. I know the curio & closet are gorgeous wood underneath but I don’t have the $1000 or more to have them both stripped of the black paint & refinished (the doors & walls inside each show me the wood where they didn’t bother painting). I’m not able to take on this task myself either.
about 1 year ago
well: it is very simple with Cleaning & Laundry but to answers
that would be Better Home & Garden
about 1 year ago
for the hard wood floors in my house i take one part white vinegar with one part water and mop teh floor with it. I then take a towel to dry it off faster. you will be amazed of the dirt that comes up
about 1 year ago
Orange glo for it deep down, and for just cleaning we use swifter meant for floors.
about 1 year ago
Murphy’s Oil Soap!
about 1 year ago
ask for the x-ray machines’ plate cleaner. apply them to your wood. its the best
about 1 year ago
We use Murphy’s Oil, Pledge, and such.
about 1 year ago
I use wax, it helps clean, stain and water proof the wood.
about 1 year ago
swiffer wet jet with wood surface cleaner liquid
about 1 year ago
orange glo!
about 1 year ago
It is with true enthusiasm that I share with you my favorite product as it pertains to this question: SCOTT’S LIQUID GOLD!!!
Though it comes in a spray can, I prefer it in the pourable can — poured onto a lambswool mitt. Though it is more difficult to find in the pourable can, it can be bought directly from the manufacturer in Colorado. I used this magic elixer to restore a Victorian era parlor room with tiger oak wainscoting that had suffered the ravages of time and pollution — the wood was dry and chalky looking, and the grain was barely discernible. The outcome was nothing less than GORGEOUS. The tiger stripes JUMPED out at me almost instantly!
The beauty of the product lies in the fact that it has no wax in it to cause build-up. Rather than covering up the wood with a shiny wax that causes build-up, it “moisturizes” the wood and literally “pulls” the dirt out of it, whilst at the same time revealing the detail of the grain and also covering superficial scratches beautifully. And — oddly — it takes the tarnish off brass! I’ve rolled it on floors, slathered it on doors, and dabbed it on every wood item from jewel boxes to grandfather clocks. I can’t get enough of the stuff!
This miraculous oil also smells wonderful — a subtle scent of almonds. Try it! Trust me, you’ll never go back to Pledge again!
about 1 year ago
murphy’s oil the best
about 1 year ago
Unfortunately, a different cleaner is required for every type of wood surface. Some antique finishes are easily ruined by modern cleaners (including murphy’s).
Surprisingly, I found that some non-abrasive automotive polishes work best at keeping antiques looking their best. Some of the microfine polishes are just as good as “french polishing”. ( Learned by testing in a hidden spot and then waiting a week. )
about 1 year ago
I personally useLiquidGold. Just as the name, everything shines beautifully. Looks new again. For furniture, I use the spray. As for hardwood floors, the pourable type. Please give it a try i’m sure you will stick with this product. WorksGREAT!. Hope you find this of help…
about 1 year ago
Well seeming as the Box can’t get wet, i make sure its in a safe non moisture area. I also cover the box with a dust resistant layer of wax.
about 1 year ago
I use Old English and
Murpheys. My husband is a great ‘varnish it” person but I protest with it in house. We have very old wood panel planks walls and wood banister.
about 1 year ago
I use lemon oil have for years.
If dirty i use Murphy’s oil soap first.
about 1 year ago
Orange glo, lemon oil
about 1 year ago
I varnish them every 4 months.
about 1 year ago
soap and water
about 1 year ago
I use an orange oil cleaner, it not only polishes the wood, but cleans it and hides scratches.
about 1 year ago
What my mom usually does is oil it. (:
about 1 year ago
Pledge always make wood shine beautifully, more so than any other. Always polish with the grain to make it shine naturally.
about 1 year ago
Bona-X wood care products are the best for floors. The floor cleaner just gets used straight, from a spray bottle. Then, after you spray, you use the microfiber “cleaning” pad on the Swiffer-like floor mop, and it’s clean, not slippery, and no build-up. Just enough shine, and people who install wood floors recommend t.
There’s something called Cabinet Magic that’s great for things like oak cabinetry.
about 1 year ago
good floor wax, home depot carries some good stuff. banisters and molding maybe just endust or old english.
about 1 year ago
I usually just use something like Pledge…as I don’t have any wood floors, I only use that for tables and such.
about 1 year ago
Howard’s Feed-N-Wax Wood Preserver (with bees wax and orange) is the absolute best for furniture. I had a table that was marked up and scratched good. I did a treatment of this and it looked as good as new. Try it. You won’t be disappointed!! I have done alot of cleaning too. I had a very expensive house that had wood trim and such through out. I treated it with this and the owners were very impressed.
Otherwise, for cleaning (washing) I like Murphy’s Oil too.
about 1 year ago
I don’t have wood floors, but I imagine I’d use Murphy’s Oil Soap on them, and then follow with something waxy in heavy traffic areas, such as, near doorways. My mom had a very successful professional housecleaning business and so I’m familiar with common methods of wood floor care, such as keeping the dust off the edges of the room with a small mop-type implement.
On other things, it depends on the type of wood. Though, I stick to microfiber cloths whenever possible.
Bare wood such as bookases: microfiber cloth with a little water on it, very well wrung out. Although, lately I’ve found the Swiffer “puff” on a long handle to be the easiest for getting the upper layer of dust off. If the dust has been there a while, I use the cloth instead because it’s a deeper cleaning.
Varnished or protected wood: Swiffer puff on a long handle gets all the dust off in one swipe, and fits into small spaces nicely without pulling the head off too often. I like the long reach so I can get the moulding, and behind furniture easily.
I have several antiques with laquer: I use no water on these, but the Swiffer implement I mentioned before, and once a year, I use Pledge Cloths to get the sticky grimy stuff off.
I had a chance to try a restoration project with an old sendai chest that had some salt water droplet damage (I didn’t ask how). I used Murphy’s Oil soap with a well wrung out cloth first, then followed with a very light application of linseed oil. The linseed oil darkened the wood significantly, but the spots were gone. The overall effect was quite good, and now it’s being kept free of dust.
I think the important thing with wood is to keep the dust off. Unless it’s grimy/sticky, then to use something like a Pledge Cloth, or a barely moistened microfiber cloth, depending on the finish. The nicest thing about cloths is that you can pass them through gingerbread type carvings in antiques.
about 1 year ago
i use liquid wax…not only surface you have to take care…also the inside of the wood…you will never know you might fall in a chair or any wood furnitures in your house or even the house that made of wood…take care also the inside not only the outside…everything is available in the market..(“,)
about 1 year ago
Not a single thing. I dust them off every once in a while but that’s it.
about 1 year ago
Polishing the surface
about 1 year ago
pledge!!
about 1 year ago
Everyday, my mom uses just a piece of sloth to remove dust from wood surfaces. And after that, she makes it a little wet and then clean wooden surfaces from that wet cloth, and if required she then takes a dry cloth and makes them dry.
about 1 year ago
Murphy oil, of course. You should also use mold removers when it comes to the floors,tiles etc. my mom and said so.
about 1 year ago
Wood furnitures are usually pre-treated to prevent termites. Just check for cracks or open spaces particularly along joints as they can become crervices for wood pests. Once you find the cracks fill it with wood gum.
Also avoid exposing your wood furnitures to extreme temperature because it can flake the varnish or tightem or loosen your furnitures.
I hope I have answered your question.
about 1 year ago
sorry I dont deep thing because now i am very born and hungry i should write somethig about your article now i should go home and eat lunch i tell you good bye
it si enough for today
about 1 year ago
i think u need murphy oil
about 1 year ago
I do a lot of thiks like recicling,use less light,etc.
I hate those peopole who uses the light all day long,and trows garbage in the midle of the street
about 1 year ago
pledge
about 1 year ago
Mr Patric, All Wood as you know that come from different places , and have different surface, the harder the finish the easier it is to clean , If it has a resin Finish its very hard, and can be wiped down with a damp terry towel , oak with just a stain and light repellent , If you want High Gloss finish, use wood polish, you can use Fancy wood oil’s but it will make it look good and smell good , but will not enhance the life of the piece, water as you know is the main enemy, if the wood piece sitting on a carpet surface that has moister under it, It will draw water up into the wood and destroy it, most wood floors have been installed sanded, stained normally to some degree and the Hardend Diamond Gloss finish , or semi Gloss or natural, that finish is susceptible to water but not from the top from the underside and cracks and edges, long term water& food can lead to damage further down the road, I could say on a nice piece of Oak, pine red oke, Birch teak (well not teak it grows in water and needs oiled with teak oil if you want you boat to look sharp,) it is a long term weathers well but will bleach out in the Sun and water but usually not damage it, wood is like raw cast iron no primer and paint it will rust in front of you, treated well finished wood , with say a new piece oak table if left UN will build up a residue that will need cleaned , but the cleaner can not be to harsh cause it will cut into the finish, just like a car use the wrong compoung and you will cut away the clear coat and the paint is thin and soon will see the primer then the metal, so back to where we were, everone is on the band waggon on green prducts , good markintg but, hey orange cleaner’s will if repetedly used on the same spot, will remove shlack, varnsh, laquar, and to the bare wood, if its a good wood well finished a clean damp terry towel and a light cleaner like simple green, then pledge or something in that spectrum, most household items are un nessary and well promoted advetiesmt,
good treated wood 100 to 200 years ago is still good today, the whole secret is to keep it clean and dry and it will last someones lifetime,aqlso most people that Ive seen only clean what they can see the top, not me the peice get an overhaul top to bottom, and light repelent lik endust pledg ect, some of my wood needs to have wood soap and then oiled. And most woods keeped dry out of the sun, un less otherwise instructed, with Faux wood products, vinals ect, note wood in the walls don’t need treated if the outside is seald with stucco , ship lap ect, and drywall on the inside the wood does not go bad if sealed properly it can go un finished, like most homes, only when on the exposed wood surface to must be treated , paint , clear coat, hardner, of some typ ect. have a good day